India

Finally made it to Cherai Beach on Vypeen Island. We’d meant to go last time we were in Kochi but our written-off Sunday put paid to that. Matt was feeling much better too. The plan was almost scuppered whilst on the way to the ferry. I was feeling a bit queasy so we sat down in the park for a couple of minutes. 2 seconds later a bloke came up to us to try to sell us an eel in a carrier bag – head and tail just poking out the top. Yep that helped me feel better. What he thought we were going to do with it I have no idea. When we declined (me clutching my turning stomach) he then asked if we wanted a photo instead! Of the eel or him, we weren’t sure, but quickly left him and the eel for dust. ...

We have left Alleppey, hooray! Matt is on the mend although not 100% so treated ourselves to a taxi from Alleppey to Fort Cochin. A bit extravagant but more predictable than the train or bus when you’re not feeling too well and we just wanted to move on from here as soon as possible. The taxi driver was very sweet. Mentioning Manchester United and David Beckham but not understanding us when we asked “Do you watch a lot of English football?”. He pointed out every temple and church we passed and slowed down at each one. He did almost get us into one of the Kashmir shops near Fort Cochin. It was a good job Matt was paying attention as I just thought he was pointing that out too. ...

Still in Alleppey. Matt is over the flu symptoms but has Delhi belly all over again. You’re meant to get it in the first 2 weeks of being in India not the last 2 weeks as well. So decided it was best to stay put for another day as he can’t travel that far and get some antibiotics. We think we have some. Had to check it on wikipedia though ;) ...

12:00 We are still in Alleppey. The plan was to leave this morning and go 10km away to stay in the Green Palm Homes on the backwaters to experience life there for real. Unfortunately Matt is too unwell. He was fine last night after dinner but hardly slept and now has flu-like symptoms. So we are having a chill-out day in Alleppey and will decide what to do next when he is feeling a little better. ...

Backwater trip today. Before we’d even had breakfast we had our plans sorted. Volker Schmidt, a guy staying at Palmy Residency, asked us if we’d like to join him on a motor boat he’d hired as it was too big for one person. It made sense as we were going to look into doing a boat trip anyway. We have met lots of people with interesting jobs and Volker’s sounded pretty impressive – director & writer (previously actor) in Berlin and Vienna. ...

In Alleppey, the backwaters of Kerala, now after a very short train journey by Indian standards of 1hr 45mins at a ridiculously early time of 6:30. Once again couldn’t sleep as I never can when we have to be up early to catch a plane or train. Matt on the other hand was almost out cold after drifting off whilst reading and smacking himself squarely on the nose with the e-reader. Another advantage of the good old-fashioned paperback – you can’t knock yourself out with a real book. ...

Guess who we bumped onto last night? Isla & Neil. It was inevitable as we’ve been in Varkala over a week now. We’re not very good at this “travelling” lark are we. (We blame the railway system!) They’d been here since Sunday and lucky for them had avoided us for 2 days. We have arranged to meet up with them later for dinner. Our last night in Varkala before we head to Alleppey. Getting a rickshaw at 6am tomorrow so must remember not to drink so much! ...

It’s 21st November – Happy Birthday Ali! Sat on our balcony at Mummy Bamboo House listening to the rain fall steadily through the palm trees onto the dirt tracks below and forming murky orange rivers. The sheets a local lady just hung up on lines between the trees are being thoroughly rinsed again. The taxi Rani’s husband drives is keeping dry under the makeshift tarpaulin garage. The monsoon season is well and truly back. Maybe it never went. It has rained everyday we have been in Kerala. Normally it comes in the evenings whilst we’re eating dinner on one of the cliffside restaurants and we watch the lightening illuminate the skies above the sea. Sometimes a brief spell during the day and everyone runs for shelter in the shops or heads into the water if on the beach as then you’re wet whatever but the sun always wins. Today it has lost the battle. It is 13:30 and the sky is full. No sunbathing today. It’s warm and dry on our balcony so no complaining. Matt can read (he’s hooked now) and I can blog and bore everyone to death. ...

Before I forget mum has received the parcel from Darjeeling and it’s in one piece! She thought it looked like drugs as it’s all wrapped in white muslin. It only took 3 weeks so that’s pretty good. I think it has beaten most of the postcards which seem to have been lost in the post. Tuesday morning joined the hardened commuters on the 5:50 train from Kochi and by 10:00 we were at Mummy Bamboo House in Varkala about a minute’s walk from the North Cliff edge overlooking the Indian Ocean. ...

Saturday morning legged it from Seashore Residency and ended up in Elite Hotel on the main high street which is much much nicer. They had FOUR towels laid out on the bed without us even asking. And plenty of natural light. And no psycho bloke at the desk. Wandered to Mantancherry on the other side of the island to Fort Cochin where I could have spent an absolute fortune. So many shops selling gorgeous jewellery, pashminas, cushion covers, ornaments you don’t need etc etc. Managed to avoid buying anything. ...